Later start today – 10 AM. Began city tour by driving down Al Hussaini Bin Ali Street, doing a U-turn at the first set of lights and back the way we came to the set of lights at the top of the hill (up past the Radisson on the right) and then turned right into a higher street that paralleled Al Hussaini Bin Ali.
Suddenly the light dawned – realised this was a street we had been looking at from our hotel window and wondering where it went to. And further, if we had only walked up the steps to the left of the mini-mart on the small terrace we would have come to this same place where there are a number of other shops and, more interestingly, King Abdullah Mosque with the Blue Dome. Seems it was not too far from us at all!
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| JD099 King Abdullah I Mosque 'Blue Mosque' built 1989 Amman |
Sufian acquiesced to my whim to take pictures from across the street, and dutifully double-parked while I ran up and down the street trying to find a good vantage point to snap the Mosque, minus power lines. Unfortunately because it was Ramadan, we could not venture any closer. A shame really as I had really wanted to go inside – which under normal circumstances I could have. Oh well.
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| JD102 Royal Palace flag in Amman city from Jebel Al Qala'a |
After that it was off to downtown Amman and sharply uphill to Jebel Al Qala’a to see the various ruins left by successive ruling civilisations on the site known as The Citadel. Amman is built on and around 7hills – Jebel in Arabic – and the views from here were absolutely fantastic! Could see the grounds of the Royal Palaces (yes, plural, as there is more than one in the precinct) flying a massive Jordanian flag – reputed to be the largest in the whole Kingdom.
We walked up to the gatehouse; Sufian bought the obligatory entrance tickets and told us we had about an hour to have a look about. With the experience of yesterday still fresh, decided not to take up the option of a guide and so struck off bravely up the path to the historical precinct with much the same sentiments as Ol’ Blue Eyes - to do things our way.
It was basically easy enough to do, especially with the brochure and the LP Jordan book – unarguably something one must NEVER dream of leaving home without!
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| JD108 Blue Dome of The Audience Hall Umayyad Palace at The Citadel Jebel Al Qala'a Amman |
Spent time roaming around the Umayyad Palace, or what’s left of it, which remains as a domed mosque-like structure. Inside there was a timber-lined and supported high roof, which has been restored. Externally there is a courtyard either side of what is left; a colonnaded street and the ruins of a Governor’s residence complete with throne room.
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| JD112 Umayyad Cistern, circa 720 AD, water supply for the Palace at The Citadel on Jebel Al Qala'a Amman |
Nearby there is a giant well-like hole in the ground, which had a former use as the Umayyad Water Cistern storage system for palace use.
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| JD126 Temple of Hercules built for Marcus Aurelius 161- 180 AD at The Citadel Jebel Al Qala'a Amman |
Just adjacent are the ruins of the Temple of Hercules built for Marcus Aurelius circa 161-180 AD – some pavers, a few columns and through them a view to downtown Amman, the Roman Theatre & Hashemite Square below
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| JD113 Byzantine Basilica at The Citadel on Jebel Al Qala'a Amman |
The Byzantine basilica close by, also has obviously seen better days, and
with not even too many mosaics left, there was simply not that much to linger over.
Excavation and other archaeological works are still in progress at The Citadel and unearthed artifacts are displayed at the National Archaeological Museum on site – an amazingly nondescript little building that resembles a concrete jail-box, complete with barred windows and heavy door. Reminded me instantly of one of those French Foreign Legion desert outposts, and so we fully expected to see some sort of Beau Geste character emerge, in a Legionnaires uniform, complete with kepi blanc, as we reached the front steps.
Despite the stark appearances, the little concrete repository cell houses some very interesting snippets of information, trinkets, relics and assorted bits and pieces – all most fascinating to those who love getting into history’s nitty gritty.
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| JD119 Dead Sea Scrolls Room National Archaeological Museum on Jebel Al Qala'a Amman |
However, off in a back corner room, we were utterly AMAZED to find ourselves face to face with a selection of authentic Dead Sea Scrolls, accompanied by the patched-up earthenware jars they came in.
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| JD120 Dead Sea scrolls pottery containers National Archaeological Museum on Jebel Al Qala'a Amman |
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| JD122 Section Dead Sea Scrolls Qumran 1952 dated 1 AD National Archaeolgy Museum Jebel Al Qala'a Amman |
Could hardly believe our eyes! Absolutely a light-bulb ‘stop and take a breath’ moment. And certainly the best thing we hadn’t expected to see all day!
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